Deep in the heart of the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, somewhere between Agra and Varanasi, is a temple town of a difference known as Khajuraho. Whereas the rest of the country concentrated on religion and the worship of deities, the geniuses from the Chandela dynasty decided to pay homage to the sexually expressive Kama Sutra. What remains is a traditional village famed for a vast group of temples and their sensual carvings and sculptures, all of which are fitting tribute to the artisan talents of the Indo-Aryan architecture.
Naturally, the majestic grandeur of the temples and their intriguing eroticism dominates the town’s actions, making it, for most, just a brief stopover en route to Agra or Varanasi. However, the town, encompassed by the dramatic Vindhya mountain range, is full of pleasant delights for those willing to delve inside its heart. Hang around for a day or two and get a true feel for this traditional village, exploring the craft shops, sampling the delicacies of Madhya Pradesh cuisine or taking yoga classes. Then, venture out at night and witness the welcoming atmosphere of the local market and abundance of open-air restaurants.
Being a popular destination, Khajuraho is blessed with sound transport links to neighbouring cities and states. A fairly new rail service operates to Jahnsi, which then connects to Delhi. Regular bus services run between the town and both Jahnsi and Satna, where onward buses leave for Agra, Allahabad, Bhopal, Indore and Varanasi. Upon arrival, everything is within walking distance and a pleasant way to explore the village life is on bicycle. Khajuraho Temples - The focal point of any trip to Khajuraho are the fascinating temples, built between 950 and 1050AD, at the time of the Chandela dynasty of Central India., and their accompanying erotic, Kama Sutra sculptures.
The Western Group
Chaunsath Yogini - The oldest temple of the Western Group, dating back to 900AD and dedicated to the goddess Kali.
Chitragupta Temple - Facing east, the temple is dedicated to Surya Dev, the sun god. Home to the dance festival.
Kandariya Mahadeo - Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the largest of the temples possess numerous carvings portraying gods, goddesses and eternal lovers.
Lakshmana Temple - Interesting temple with many erotic carvings, including one of a man sodomizing a horse, whilst be watch by female spectators.
Matangeshwara Temple - Noted for its imposing 8-foot lingam (Hindu phallic symbol).
Vishwanatha Temple - With a collection of passionate couples and woman in various forms.
The Eastern Group
Adinatha Temple - Dedicated to Adinath, the Jain saint, the temple is awash with sculpted figures.
Ghantai Temple - Impressive carvings of the 16 dreams of Lord Mahavira’s mothers at his birth.
Parsvanatha Temple - Largest temple of the Eastern group.
Vamana Temple - Known for the carvings of heavenly maidens in an array of poses.
The Southern Group
Duladeo Temple - Shiva temple renowned for the vivid representations of divine maidens.
Chaturbhuja Temple - The only temple without erotic sculptures, however, with an enormous Lord Vishnu in the sanctum.
Archaeological Museum - Excellent collection of statues and sculptures from the region representing Brahmin, Jain and Buddhist faiths. Open 10am - 5pm, Saturday to Thursday. Entrance fee Rs5.
Adivart Tribal and Folk Art Museum - An interesting break from the temples showcasing the tribal culture of Madhya Pradesh. Open 10am - 5pm, Tuesday to Sunday. Entrance Rs50.
Khajuraho Dance Festival - Annual festival of eccentric classical music and dance held at the end of February at the open-air auditorium outside Chitragupta and Vishwanatha Temples.
Bandhavgarh National Park - Spread across 105 sq. km, this intimate park is famed for possessing the one of the highest quantities of tigers in India, a leopard rearing centre and a wealth of other wildlife.
Panna National Park- 57km from Khajuraho and covering 543 sq. km, the park has another large collection of tigers amongst others. Best visited between January and May. Budget Hotels Khajuraho
Hotel Surya - Range of rooms in the heart of town. Free morning yoga sessions. Tel (91) (7686) 274145.
Hotel Zen - Quiet lodgings just a short walk from the temples. Tel (91) (7686) 274228.
Midrange Hotels Khajuraho
Hotel Harmony - Good rooms, decent restaurant and pleasant garden. Tel (91) (7686) 274135.
Ken River Lodge - Beautiful lodge on the banks of the River Ken. 20min drive from the town centre. Tel (91) (124) 4222657.
Luxury Hotels Khajuraho
Hotel Taj Chandela - An abundance of elegant rooms set in 11 acres of stunning gardens. Tel (91) (7686) 272355.
The Jewel of the Jungle - Luxury and rustic cottages and huts close to the Panna Tiger Reserve. Tel (91) 11 2955 5006.