With both old and new history, traditional life and modern urbanisation, Phnom Penh is every bit the enchanting city travellers crave for when preparing an Asian escapade. Cambodia’s charming and chaotic capital sits at the meeting point of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers, thriving on the activity surrounding the magnificent temples, exquisite French architecture and wide leafy boulevards. Whereas the actual attractions can be covered within a couple of days, the city is a fine introduction to Cambodia with a distinctive lazy ambience that never fails to grasp the intrigue of all who visit.
Anyone with an adverse feeling towards dusty streets, noise, traffic, pedestrian congestion and a curious blend of aromas may be better off avoiding Phnom Penh. The proud owner of frantic tuk-tuk drivers and motorcyclists, persistent beggars and touts, and the lingering smells of the local markets, the city is a true Asian metropolis, however this is all part of the enticing charm. The city centre and majority of action operates between Monivong Boulevard and the Tonle Sap, reaching from Wat Phnom to the Independence Monument. Running parallel with the river, Sisowath Quay is the tourist heart and entertainment centre, from where all attractions are accessible.
As with many South East Asian cities, eating is a great part of the experience and Phnom Penh is no different, offering numerous local delights side by side with French, Thai and Vietnamese influenced dishes. The best bet is to take a stroll along the riverfront and take a pick of the numerous street stalls lined up alongside swanky restaurants and bistros. Remember to proceed with caution when purchasing from the street and make sure that everything is fully cooked.
For a long time a hidden treasure, Phnom Penh, and Cambodia, is fast becoming a fashionable landing spot on the Asian circuit, therefore is served with excellent year-round transport connections. Phnom Penh International Airport sees daily flights to Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh, Kuala Lumpur, Seoul and Singapore amongst others. Buses, leaving from Psar Thmei or Sisowath Quay leave for Kratie, Kompong Cham, Poipet, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and even Ho Chi Minh City. For an interesting journey to Siam Reap, boats/ferries make their way up the Tonle Sap River. A relatively small city, getting around is fairly easy, although roads are likely to be shared with taxis, rickshaws, motorbikes, pedestrians and a certain amount of livestock.
Phnom Penh Attractions
The Royal Palace - Dominating the Phnom Penh skyline, The Royal Palace, with its classic Khmer style, is the city’s most renowned sight and home to King Sihamoni. The surrounding gardens are a haven of tranquillity and the encompassing wall, painted yellow and white, the colours of Buddhism and Hinduism, is a true symbol of religious unity. Open daily from 7.30am - 5pm. Entrance US$6.25.
Silver Pagoda - Inside the Royal Palace, the lavish pagoda contains a floor made from 5329 sparkling silver tiles as well as a solid gold Buddha and Italian marble staircase amongst other extravagant statues. Open daily from 7.30am - 5pm. Entrance US$6.25.
NB the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda close between 11am and 2pm every day.
National Museum - Wonderful collection of the “Treasures of Cambodia”, the golden age of Angkor, including bronze, stone, wooden and ceramic objects and all housed within an elegant terracotta building complete with four courtyards and pristine lawn. Open daily from 8am to 5pm. Entrance US$3. Photography not allowed inside.
Tuol Sleng Museum - Changing faces from a High School to Cambodia’s most important prison, the museum and photo gallery provide a fascinating, albeit at times horrific, insight into the country’s recent troubles. Open daily from 8am to 5pm. Entrance US$2.
The Riverside & Sisowath Quayside - The focal point of the city is a 2km stretch of wide promenade running along the Tonle Sap. A popular spot for tourists and locals alike, the area comes alive during the evening with street food vendors and off-the-cuff performers complimented by western style bars and cafés.
Wat Phnom - Perched atop a leafy hill and affording wonderful views of Phnom Penh is the city’s most important temple, where, as far as legends are concerned, it was built to house four Buddhist statues in 1372. Today the area is awash with praying Khmers and the entrance staircase possesses an unthreatening array of beggars, street kids and vendors.
Wat Ounalom - Founded in 1443, the temple is the beating heart of Cambodian Buddhism and home to the country’s Buddhist leader and a group of monks. Interestingly, the Wat was first built to store a solitary hair of the Buddha.
Psar Toul Tom Poung - Otherwise known as the Russian Market, this is the place to seek out a little bit of everything, from local curios to cheap designer goods to even cheaper fake designer goods. Up until the mid 90s drugs and guns were also available, however, following a clamp down, are no longer on the menu.
Mekong Boat Trips - Take a leisurely cruise along the river and gaze in awe as the sun sets behind the Royal Palace. Trips vary in style, with some offering the full dining experience and others allowing bring-your-own beers.
Phnom Penh Nightlife
Phnom Penh has colourful mix of lively bars, hostess clubs and nightclubs to choose from, particularly around the street 51 area. City favourites include the classy Elephant Bar at Raffles Hotel, Green Vespa British bar with plenty of drinks promos, the laidback Herb Café on the corner of 51 and 278, Rubies Wine Bar, an expat favourite, and the rock and roll bar Sharkys.
Budget Hotels Phnom Penh
Boddhi Tree Umma - Charming budget lodgings set amongst serene gardens opposite the Toul Sleng Museum. Tel (855) 23211397.
Spring Guesthouse - Great budget option with a variety of rooms in the city centre. Tel (855) 15888777.
Top Banana Guesthouse - Welcoming guesthouse serving great food and with a laidback vibe. Tel (855) 12885572.
Midrange Hotels Phnom Penh
Manor House - Laidback villa style hotel complete with relaxed pool and garden. Tel (855) 23992566.
Pacific Hotel - Close to the National Museum with large, well-furnished rooms. Tel (855) 23218592.
The Billabong Hotel - An oasis in the heart of the city, with exquisite poolside restaurant. Tel (855) 23223703.
Luxury Hotels Phnom Penh
InterContinental - Huge collection of excellent rooms in the downtown region. Tel (855) 23424888.